🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.